Thursday, December 17, 2015

A Christmas Menu

Lights glistened from frosty windows of the old brick building as I made my way out of the cold and into the welcoming warmth of Cook Street; a French and Italian cooking school nestled in the heart of downtown Denver, Colorado. I ran to the large wood-burning oven to warm my hands as the smell of bread and sweet rolls made me realize just how hungry I was. A few Christmas trees stood in the corners, completely covered in decorations and twinkling lights. The gentle sound of carols played and I could almost taste the cinnamon that wafted from the baking kitchen, which was by far my favorite kitchen at culinary school. During my time at Cook Street I had mastered the art of wielding a kitchen knife, filleting fish and deboning more animals than I can count, pairing wine with cheese, frosting sponge cake, and everything in between. And what lay before me was two tests, one written and one practical and then graduation. This graduation was sure to be much different than the collegiate one that I had experienced months prior. Instead of 900, there were 23. Instead of a cap and gown, there was a well-worn chef’s coat. Instead of the graduation march, there was cheering and a large bottle of champagne. Instead of a communications degree, there was a culinary certificate. Instead of the blazing Texas summer, there was a snowy Denver winter, just three days to Christmas.

As my fingers thawed, my mind flew hundreds of miles south and a few years back to the anticipation of my grandparents’ arrival every year for Christmas. As they rounded the corner to our home, we ran out to their car, anxious to see them. We always helped to unload because there were mountains of presents, perfectly wrapped and ready for three small children to spend the next two days shaking, weighing, and guessing. Under all the presents lay even more goodies. Cookies, snacks, cheeses, Eggnog, and recipes for Christmas delights filled our kitchen counters. My grandmother did not know how to cook when she married my grandfather years prior. But the petite master-chef that walked into our home was the spark in my life that lead to a love of food, my attendance and graduation from culinary school, and the 6 years that have followed as a personal chef and caterer. It all started with Christmas and so it feels fitting to share with you all some of my favorite recipes for my favorite holiday. May it ignite in you a love for all things Christmas and all things food.


First Course: Cheese and Wine

Who doesn’t love cheese and wine? The salty, buttery flavor of cheese pairs beautifully with the tannic warmth of wine. At every family gathering, there is always cheese. My husband thought this was strange when he first married me but now we carry on the tradition in our own home. In French cooking, cheese is often served at the end of the meal as a last course. However, I want to eat it first, so that is how we are going to do it. Below I will list the basic ingredients needed to make a cheese platter and also my personal favorites with wine pairings.

Ingredients:
4-5 cheeses of various flavors and firmness
Dried Cherries
Dried Figs
Roasted, Salted Nuts
Water Crackers
Cheese Board
Cheese Knives
Cheese Signs

Havarti with Dill: This delicious semi-soft, Danish cow’s milk cheese is rather light in taste and a crowd-pleaser for even the most cautious cheese eater. It has a buttery flavor and is typically aged about 3 months.
            Wine pairing: French Chardonnay or German dry Riesling (not sweet)

Beemster: Not for the faint of heart, this rich and hard Dutch cow’s milk cheese is full of flavor and salty, butterscotch notes. Some say that the taste is too strong for them but I say, try it! It’s my favorite cheese by far. Be sure to get a high-quality, well-aged Beemster.
Wine pairing: French Bordeaux or Italian Valpolicella

Brie with blueberry preserves: On our honeymoon 5 years ago, we stayed at a gorgeous resort that had the most wonderful tapas restaurant. We glanced over the large menu until one item caught both of our attentions: Brie with blueberry. My husband and I ordered it because for one, it was familiar, and secondly, it was cheese. Have I mentioned that I love cheese? This magnificent marriage of creamy Brie, a soft French cow’s milk cheese, and sweet, tart blueberry was and is perfect.
            Wine Pairing: Champagne

Smoked Gouda: Bold and decadent, smoked Gouda is another Dutch cow’s milk cheese, named for the city Gouda in the Netherlands. It is perfect with a crisp apple slice.
            Wine pairing: Italian Chianti or French Chateauneuf du Pape


Second Course: Maple Pear Salad

My grandmother, Ganny, is always trying new recipes. Even at 83 years old, she is constantly experimenting and producing the most delicious food from her Oklahoma kitchen. This salad is her recipe and is perfect for your Christmas day meal. The sweet maple syrup, salty cheese, and crunchy pear are the most delightful combination.

Recipe:
1 package mixed baby greens
2 pears, cored, and thinly sliced
1/2 cup dried sweetened cranberries
1/2 cup candied pecans, chopped
1/2 cup crumbled gorgonzola
Maple Dressing to taste

Dressing:
1/4 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup olive oil
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/4 teaspoon ground pepper
1/4 teaspoon salt

Method:
Mix together all the ingredients for the dressing well. Toss some dressing with the lettuce green and layer the remaining ingredients on top of the lettuce.


Third Course: Beef Tenderloin, Four Cheese Macaroni and Cheese, Neena’s Rolls

Beef Tenderloin
This is by far my favorite cut of beef. From the low fat content, to the truly tender, cut-with-a-butter-knife texture, beef tenderloin is a cut above the competition. In my family, we have the traditional turkey, gravy, dressing, etc at Thanksgiving, and we kick it up a notch at Christmas. Who wants the same turkey twice in a month? Not me! This recipe is my own and is simple, delicious, and will leave you craving more!

Recipe:
1 Beef Tenderloin, fat and silver skin trimmed off
Course Kosher Salt
Ground Black Pepper
Ground Garlic Powder

Method:
Preheat the oven to 375º F. Pat the beef tenderloin with a paper towel to remove excess moisture. Cut the tenderloin into 8-ounce portions, about 2 inches in thickness. Coat the beef tenderloin in salt, pepper, and garlic powder. Sear on medium heat on a nonstick skillet for about 2 minutes a side. You want the tenderloin to have a nice crisp on it. Bake at 375º for 15 minutes or until the meat thermometer reads 135º F internal temperature for medium-rare. Remove from the oven and tent the pan with foil. Let the meat rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Four Cheese Macaroni and Cheese
This recipe is adapted from The Pioneer Woman. I can only take credit for the changes that I have made to it. Once again, my love of cheese has taken over, and this dish is well worth the calories. Crispy pancetta, delicious cheese, and al dente noodles are the stars of this show. My family and clients love this combination of French and Italian food.

Recipe:
1 onion, diced
1/2 pound pancetta, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup all purpose flour
2 cups whole milk
1 cup half-and-half
3/4 cup shredded parmesan cheese
3/4 cup shredded smoked cheddar cheese
3/4 cup shredded Fontina cheese
4 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
Salt and pepper to taste
1 pound dried macaroni or small pasta

Method:
In a large Dutch oven, sauté the onion and pancetta together over medium heat until the onion is translucent and the pancetta is crispy. Add the minced garlic and cook for a minute or two. Turn the heat to low and add the flour and stir often for 2 minutes. Add the milk and heavy whipping cream and stir as the mixture thickens. Add the cheese and stir as they melt. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and remove from heat. Cook the pasta according to the package directions, drain and add to the cheese mixture. Serve warm.

Neena’s ice Box Rolls
There is a mystery that surrounds this tasty treats in my family. My great-grandmother, Neena, skillfully crafted these buttery rolls at holidays and family gatherings. The following recipe is incredible but I am sure that someone can relate to the feeling that an ingredient was left out of a cherished recipe by the author just to torment us. Maybe what this recipe is missing is a cozy kitchen in Shattuck, Oklahoma and a tiny doctor’s daughter, my Neena.

Recipe:
            ½ cup Crisco
            1 ½ tsp. Salt
            1 cup scalded Milk
            1 package dry Yeast
            1/3 cup Sugar
            1 Egg
            ¼ cup lukewarm Water
            3 ½ to 4 cups Flour
            1 stick butter, melted

Method:
Dissolve 1 package (2 1/4 teaspoon) of yeast and 1 teaspoon sugar into 1/4 cup lukewarm water.  Place the Crisco, remaining sugar, and salt into a large bowl.  Pour the scalded milk over it.  When it is melted and dissolved, add the beaten egg.  When the mixture is lukewarm, add the yeast.  Sift in the flour, 1 cup at a time, and beat it thoroughly.  When the dough no longer sticks to the sides of the bowl it has been beaten enough. Turn the dough onto a floured board and kneed it until it is smooth and elastic.  Place the dough into a greased bowl, covered with plastic wrap. Let it rise for about an hour until it doubles in size. Roll dough on a floured surface to 1/2 inch thickness. Cut dough with a biscuit cutter. Dip each roll into melted butter and fold in half on a ungreased baking sheet. Bake the rolls in a preheated oven at 400º for 10-12 minutes or until lightly browned.


Finale: Apple Pie with homemade Caramel Sauce

Apple Pie:
            There is nothing else that says “Christmas Time” quite like an apple pie fresh from the oven. The smell that fills the kitchen while it is baking cannot be outdone. I am a huge lover of apple pie and homemade caramel sauce. This recipe is my own and is sure to be the best apple pie you have ever had!

Apple Pie Filling Recipe:
            4 large Honey Crisp or Fuji apples
            3 large Granny Smith apples
            1/2 stick butter
            1/4 cup sugar
            1/4 cup brown sugar
            1 teaspoon cinnamon
            1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
            1/2 teaspoon cloves
            1/4 teaspoon salt
            1 teaspoon vanilla extract
            2 tablespoons all purpose flour
            1 deep dish piecrust

Apple Pie Topping Recipe:
            1/2 cup all purpose flour
            1/2 cup white sugar
            1 teaspoon cinnamon
            1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
            1/2 teaspoon cloves
            1/2 teaspoon salt
            1 stick very cold butter

Method:
For the filling, peel and slice the apples. Over medium low heat, melt 1/2 stick butter in a large skillet and add the apples and sugars. Cook the apples for 5 minutes, add the spices and cook for an additional 10 minutes. Turn off the burner and let rest for 5 minutes and add the vanilla.
For the topping, pour the flour, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and salt in a food processor and pulse 5 times. Cut the butter into small cubes and add to the food processor. Pulse 12 times.
Preheat the oven to 375º F. Pour the filling into a piecrust and sprinkle the topping over the apples. Bake for 30-40 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown and the topping is bubbly. Serve with fresh whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

Caramel Sauce
            I never knew that making caramel sauce could be so easy. It truly is! And now you too can impress your friends by making your own. It makes the perfect gift. Just let it cool, pour into a mason jar, and place a label on it. You will be the hit of the season, trust me!

Recipe:
            1 cup white sugar
            1/2 cup water
            4 tablespoons butter, room temperature
            4-8 tablespoons heavy whipping cream, room temperature
            1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
            1 teaspoon vanilla

Method:
            So I said that caramel sauce was easy to make, and it is. However, it is also very easy to mess up. Caramel is simply just burned sugar. You want to have the right combination of burned yet not over burned. The best way I can describe the ideal caramel color is cherry wood.
            For the sauce, pour the sugar into a heavy saucepan. Add the water and use your fingers to be sure that all the sugar is moistened. Wash any remaining sugar granules from the inside walls of the saucepan by wetting your fingers and running them along the inside until you feel no more bumps. Place the saucepan over medium heat and do not touch it until the mixture is boiling. If you do, sugar will get on the sides of the pan and burn. Once the caramel reaches the ideal color, immediately remove from the heat and add butter and heavy whipping cream in small amounts, whisking well after each addition. Be careful of the steam that this creates because it can burn you. To test if the caramel is the right consistency, dip a spoon in the hot caramel sauce and let it cool for 30 seconds. Taste it and if it is too thick, add more heavy whipping cream. Finally, add salt and vanilla extract. Let cool and store in the fridge.



*Shannon Laning is an Active Member of the Junior League of Midland, Inc. She is a personal chef and caterer in Midland, Texas. She was classically trained at Cook Street School of Fine Cooking in Denver, Colorado and spent 1 1/2 years in Houston as a personal chef to a Houston Rockets basketball player. After her husband was relocated to Midland in 2011, she began a thriving career in the Tall City. She has wonderful clientele and loves to spend her free time with her husband Zack, 6-month old daughter Hartley, and 3-year old goldendoodle Beau.

This article first appeared in the Tumbleweed. Click here to read the full edition

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